The unexpected passage of heat is interesting!
Seal of approval from famous chefs!
ANAORI CARBON POT × TAKUMI (Chef)
After building a solid foundation at the famous restaurant of Osakan cuisine, “Hozenji Kigawa,” for 13 years, Shintaro Matsuo opens his own restaurant, “Kitashinchi Koryu,” in 2009. Known for his creative yet delicate Osakan cuisine and now gaining respect from all over Japan, we asked Chef Matsuo for his thoughts after trying the carbon pot.
No. 1 Osaka ● Japanese Cuisine『Kitashinchi Koryu』
Owner Chef Shintaro Matsuo
Both the Sea Bream and Mushrooms Had a Glossy Finish
Thicker Umami (Savory Taste) Than What I Had Imaged
“I am honestly surprised at the unexpected results.”
Chef Matsuo expresses his surprise after using the round, carbon pot OVAL to cook rice porridge that he usually cooks with a clay pot. “The way the heat passes through and how the flavors come out were clearly different.”
When cooking rice porridge with bamboo shoots, he says, “The rice porridge has a melted thickness, but the texture of each grain of rice remains. Furthermore, the sweetness of the rice and the flavor of the bamboo shoots were stronger than I had expected.”
He also noticed a difference in the amount of moisture remaining in the ingredients.
Matsuo says, “For example, when cooking eel until its skin is crisp using a normal grill, the meat becomes flaky due to moisture loss. However, when cooking with a charcoal flame, the skin is crisp but the inside remains fluffy. This carbon pot has a similar effect. It’s as if the same charcoal effect is occurring inside this pot.”
The carbon pot is made by carving out 99.9% pure carbon graphite. That is why it has the same far-infrared effects as cooking with charcoal. It is impressive that Chef Matsuo noticed this difference from how the rice porridge turned out.
Chef Matsuo serves rice porridge as the final dish of his course.
“The rice is kinuhikari made in Takatsuki, Osaka. The water used is from Mino springs. I chose this menu because it is easier to taste the deliciousness of the water and sweetness of the rice in rice porridge rather than regularly cooked rice.”
This day, Chef Matsuo cooked rice porridge with red sea bream from Akashi, and mushrooms.
After heating the carbon pot until it was very hot, mushrooms were stir fried in sesame oil. Matsuo comments, “I am surprised that there is no burning even though I heated the pot until the oil was smoking.”
Heat is stored in the pot and uniformly transferred to the ingredients so it is difficult for the food to burn. This is a characteristic of the carbon pot.
After cooking the rice until it becomes clear, some white wine and broth made from sea bream is added. After boiling, the pot is lidded and the rice is cooked on low heat for 20 minutes. When there is just a bit of moisture remaining on the surface, slices of thickly cut red sea bream are laid and the pot is lidded to steam for approximately 10 minutes.
“Rice Porridge with Mushrooms and Red Sea Bream” cooked to a glossy finish, and topped with karasumi and onion sprouts.
Address:Esbas Kitashinchi 23, 1F
1-5-1 Dojima Kita-ku, Osaka
Business Hours:18:00-23:30 (Last order 21:30)
Closed: Closed on Sundays and national holidays.
Cost: Omakase Course from 16,000 yen
Seats:12 counter seats only (no smoking)
Payment: Credit cards accepted
Born in Suita City, Osaka Prefecture in 1975. From the age of 19, apprentices at the Osakan cuisine restaurant, “Hozenji Kigawa” for 13 years. Became head cook at the age of 24. In 2009 at the age of 33, he opens his own restaurant in Kitashinchi, his place of yearning. In 2011, 2 years after opening, he receives three Michelin stars. The name “Koryu” has two Chinese characters that mean “carved arc like a willow.” He chose this name to represent the strong foundation like the roots of a willow and the flexibility of the willow’s branches.
The result of the rice and mushrooms cooked by being enveloped in heat is a glossy finish. The sea bream cooked with the remaining heat in the pot is finished rare, tasting sweet and juicy. An exquisite porridge with the deep flavors of mushroom and sea bream is completed.
“Isn’t the umami from the rice and sea bream flavorful? I wonder what will happen when steaming fish with this pot that brings out the strong natural flavor of foods.”
Matsuo says that he would like to challenge non-water cooking next.
“I’m guessing that it will have a fluffy, delicious result.”
We are anxious in hearing Chef Matsuo’s next report.
NOVEMBER 27, 2017
Photos: Ryoto Shimomura Text: Kumiko Shibata